In 2006, global green coffee exports totalled USD$11 billion, up from a low of USD$5.1 billion in the wake of a global price collapse in 2002.1 Since this collapse, coffee consumers have become increasingly aware of the idea of fair trade certification as a means of addressing poverty amongst third world coffee farmers. This article presumes that the reader is familiar with these arguments2 and attempts to explore the intersection of fair trade certification and coffee quality.
Fair Trade Certification and Coffee Quality: A Very Brief Exploration
Published June 28, 2009 Certified , Fair Trade , Review Article 4 CommentsIn February this year, Melbourne’s Toshiyuki Ishiwata realised a dream of his many years in the making: to hold a coffee syphon brewing session in Melbourne with Japanese syphon champion Mieko Koike. I tagged along to one of the sessions and wrote an article setting out the brewing technique demonstrated by Ms Koike. The article was published in Cafe Culture Magazine (Issue 17, 2009, page 22). I would like to thank Cafe Culture Magazine for graciously providing a copy for the readers of this this web page. Copyright in the following image and pdf files belongs to Cafe Culture Magazine; you may not reproduce them without their permission.
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Whilst I enjoyed Ms Koike’s style of syphon brew, it did certainly seem to be much stronger and less extracted than the SCAA and SCAE golden cup standards. I personally usually use a lower dose of coffee, perhaps 14 to 18g for my TCA-2 syphon. I have also had memorable syphon brews by using a higher dose of coarsely ground coffee, such as 24g for a TCA-2, with the fine particles sieved out and a slightly longer brew time.
Ultimately, by controlling brew time, dose, grind size and, to some extent, brew temperature, syphon offers diligent coffee brewers flexibility to achieve a pleasing combination of strength and extraction. Please feel free to describe your favourite syphon brew recipes in the comments below.
Fair Trade Organic Blend from Coffee Supreme
Published June 28, 2009 Certified , Fair Trade , Organic , Recommended , Review , Roastery in Melbourne , Very Good 1 CommentIn Brief: A Very Good espresso – rich, smooth, with brown sugar sweetness and hints of liquorice. Milder than expected in cappuccino, producing a pleasant custardy flavour – Good.
Commentary: The Melbourne branch of New Zealand roastery Coffee Supreme has long been a well respected contributor to Melbourne’s coffee culture. It is a true testament to their skills that they have created this blend from the limited set of coffees that are both Fair Trade and organic certified.
I note that this coffee was only a few days old when reviewed. It may be that if it had had a chance to rest for a few more days, it might have performed better in milk.
A subtle blueberry flavour reminiscent of a good quality Ethiopian Harrar made a brief and fleeting appearance only in the longer espresso shots.
Packaging:
Airtight: No.
Valve: No.
Resealable: Yes.
Roast Date: Yes.
In Detail:
Acidity: Medium-Low.
Body/Mouthfeel: Medium-High.
Aftertaste (Length): High.
Aftertaste (Cleanliness): Medium.
Bitterness: Medium-Low to Medium.
Strong Flavours (Espresso) : Cocoa, liquorice/aniseed.
Subtle Flavours (Espresso): Blueberry (not present in all shots).
Strong Flavours (Cappuccino) : Mild in milk, custardy.
Subtle Flavours (Cappuccino): Straw.
Subjective Scores:
Espresso – Taste: Good to Very Good.
Espresso – Aftertaste: Very Good to Excellent.
Cappuccino: Good.
Roaster’s Response:
Further Information:
First time readers of the Compass Coffee Review are encouraged to browse through the FAQ for information on how the system works and how reviews should be interpreted.
Review Article: March 2009.
Reviewers: Luca Costanzo, Nim Namasi, David Makin.
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Coffee #09034 – Fair Trade Indian Single Origin
Published June 28, 2009 Certified , Fair Trade , Not Recommended , Review , Roastery in Sydney , Single Origin 4 CommentsIn Brief: Chemical and rancid fat flavours rendered this Poor to Average as espresso. This coffee made a Good cappuccino, with milk covering some of the more vile notes.
Coffee #09032 – Fair Trade Blend
Published June 28, 2009 Certified , Fair Trade , Not Recommended , Poor , Review , Roastery in Melbourne , Uncategorized 1 CommentIn Brief: Dirt, ash, citric acid, instant coffee, dry finish and Poor to Average as espresso. Flat and washed out – Average as cappuccino.
Commentary: This coffee was purchased from a boutique coffee roaster.
Packaging:
Airtight: Yes.
Valve: Yes.
Resealable: No.
Roast Date: No.
In Detail:
Acidity: Medium-High to High.
Body/Mouthfeel: Medium-Low.
Aftertaste (Length): High.
Bitterness: High.
Strong Flavours : Ash, dirt, lemon, instant coffee.
Subtle Flavours: Black pepper.
Subjective Scores:
Espresso – Taste: Poor to average.
Espresso – Aftertaste: Average.
Cappuccino: Average.
Roaster’s Response:
Further Information:
First time readers of the Compass Coffee Review are encouraged to browse through the FAQ for information on how the system works and how reviews should be interpreted.
Review Article: March 2009.
Reviewers: Luca Costanzo, Nim Namasi, David Makin.
Share this review:
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